Along the hillsides of Terra Bella, Calif., Buck Brand is cultivating an eclectic collection of citrus. The organic operation, which has been growing citrus since 1987, is producing over 40 varieties — from finger limes that spill caviar-like pearls to pink lemons with rose-hued interiors.
The Buck Brand label was established when Lisle and Mary Lou Babcock purchased what was then called Deer Creek Heights Ranch in 1987. Lisle, a biology major with a passion for experimentation, approached citrus cultivation with scientific curiosity. His philosophy centered on flavor over quantity, which led him to plant varieties based on historical research and gut instinct rather than conventional market wisdom. The Babcocks sold the operation in 2017 to Homegrown Organics, and Buck Brand continues to follow their pioneering approach.
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| Buck Brand/Instagram |
Buck Brand is taking an unconventional approach to citrus farming that prioritizes flavor above all else. They are dry-packing their fruit using horsehair brushes, a technique that preserves the natural oils, and are avoiding the chlorine baths and wax coatings that most packinghouses use.
The operation maintains some of the oldest citrus groves in California, featuring navel orange trees that date back to 1908. But they're not resting on heritage alone. The farm is constantly experimenting with new varieties, planting trials based on historical information and hunches.
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| Buck Brand/Instagram |
The finger limes are proving particularly challenging. Each tree produces fruit on its own schedule, with maturation occurring every 10 to 14 days. The staff is cataloging each tree's patterns, trying to understand these wild plants that seem to follow no predictable rhythm.
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| Buck Brand/Instagram |
As the organic and specialty food movement continues evolving, Buck Brand is proving that there is a place for growers willing to take risks on unusual varieties. Their 270-acre operation offers unique citrus varieties handled with techniques most farms abandoned decades ago.
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